Surf Science: an introduction to waves for surfing
Tony Butt and Paul Russell, with Rick Grigg, 2004
What people thought about Surf Science
An excellent resource for surfers who want a simple understanding of the how’s and why’s of wave creation and surf conditions. …
‘The large-scale, worldwide wind/weather patterns were explained exceptionally well … Group propagation was fascinating … There were great explanations of how bathymetry (ocean bottom contour) and refraction helps characterize waves.
(hisurfadvisory.com, October 2004)
Explains in simple, easy to understand fashion, the dynamics behind wave creation, from how swells are generated to how topographical variables affect wave shape and quality. For that reason alone, it should be a requisite read for all coastal activists concerned about beach and surf preservation.
(Surfrider Foundation, Making Waves, 20–5/15)
Holds interest for anyone who loves the sea and wants to understand it better. The authors present sophistictaed concepts such as swell generation and dispersal, and the influence of temperature variation and the tides on surf, in accessible, engaging language.
(The Age, http://www.theage.com.au, 20.11.04)
Jam-packed with many helpful graphs, diagrams, photographs.
(Longboard Magazine, February 2005)
With the release of Surf Science, we now hold all the technical knowledge we need – at our fingertips... Surf Science provides readers with an easy-to-read, in depth explanation of the topic with a specific focus on how the conditions influence our sport....This crash course in wave prediction not only shows how to read complicated satellite and computer models, but it also contains a wide-ranging list of additional resources for further study.
(Eastern Surf, vol. 13:100, October 2004)
Clearly reaches out to both surfers and those interested in the surf … great color graphics and color photos. Another attractive aspect of this book is the historical perspective provided regarding wave research. The book is well-written and well-organized …
(David F. Naar, Associate Professor, College of Marine Science, University of South Florida, Oceanography, vol. 18, no. 2, June 2005)
Extremely well-illustrated and compiled.
(Publishers Weekly, PW Daily for Booksellers, 25.08.04)
Praise for the first edition of Surf Science (2002):
This excellent book looks at the science behind our ocean fetish … everything a surfer needs to know about “Large Scale Weather Patterns”, “The Growth of Ocean Waves”, as well as chapters on refraction, sand movement, local winds, forecasting methods and much more.This is science, but not as you know it. An oceanographer and big wave rider, Tony is also blessed with an ability to translate his extensive technical knowledge and water experience into understandable language for the lay surfer. The graphics … are all relevant, clearly laid out and easy to interpret … there are also … good surf photos in there to pause and fantasise on... So who would benefit from this book? Well, it’s hard to think of a surfer who wouldn’t. If you’re a beginner … you’ll learn a whole lot of crucial information that will help you understand what’s going on... If you’re an experienced surfer then it’s an ideal book to have on the shelf for either a one-time read or, most likely, regular reference... We’d recommend you buy this book – it can’t hurt to increase our understanding of the elements that, after all, dictate so much of our lives.
(The Surfer’s Path, Issue 33, October/November 2002)
Swell forecasting is one of the most fervently discussed topics amongst surfers and one of the most poorly understood aspects of our lifestyle. … This is where Dr Tony Butt can save your soul. The man is … a “surf forecasting guru”. If he doesn’t know it, it isn’t worth knowing. … Thankfully he has decided to commit his wisdom on how the hell waves work to paper … . [The book is] aimed squarely at us regular joes not eggheads and is presented in a clear intelligent fashion. So hopefully you’ll learn stuff and it should make your swell predicting skills second to none.
(Surf Europe, Issue 22, April/May 2003)
Roll over Willard Bascom. … It is time to put away that dog-eared copy of Waves and Beaches: The Dynamics of the Ocean Surf, because there is a new wave book in town... If you are the kind of deep-thinking surfer who stands against the rail at Mundaka or on the cliffs at Mavericks or on the road up to ComSat Hill and looks out over big, powerful perfect waves breaking like perfect little soldiers and says not only “Whoa” and “Wow” but “How?” then Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves For Surfing is the answer to all your pondering… it’s all here in this book … it runs the gamut from the strange physics of wave generation to the very sophisticated science of computer modeling and satellite wave-imaging and forecasting. This is the modern world, and Surf Science is one of the most sophisticated surfing books ever produced. There is a lot of science and equations in here but Butt and Russell lay it all down for the semi-sophisticated layman... By George, Butt and Russell have done it and this book is a must for any surfer whose mesmerization by the power and beauty of perfect waves moves from “Wow” and “Whoa” to “How?”’
(Ben Marcus, Surfers Journal, May 2003)
Written from a surfer’s point of view. Covers all aspects needed by surfers in theory, fluid mechanics, ocean science and coastal effects. Superb, easy to understand illustrations. Good value as it puts all the info you need into one book. Published in high quality paperback, colour, printing and layout are really top of the range production. … Highly recommended, excellent value, excellent production
(Surfing Ireland, May 2003)
For all of you surfing eggheads out there who wonder about swell genesis and propagation and get into the slings and arrows of 21st Century surf forecasting, there is a very good book called Surf Science: Introduction to Waves For Surfing. This is 144 pages of fairly sophisticated ocean science put down in layman’s terms
(Surf column, Sunday Santa Cruz Sentinel, May 2003)
The authors are well qualified on their subject – both have PhDs in wave motion and coastal sand transport and are avid surfers.
(University of Plymouth Upfront, Issue 29, September/October 2002)